
Science journalist Jane Qiu is travelling to the Palmer ecological research station on the Antarctic Peninsula, joining researchers investigating how climate change has affected the region in recent decades. Please check back for her dispatches from the bottom of the world.
The R/V LM Gould sailed through a stormy blizzard for most of the night. Today, 30 November, the decks and anchor chains are covered in snow. We are well into the Gerlache Strait, the stretch of 160-kilometre long water that separates the Palmer Archipelago from the Antarctic Peninsula. The entire landscape – the placid sea, occasional icebergs and ice-draped mountains – is coated in different shades of grey and shimmers under the unearthly Antarctic light.
In the distance, the Palmer ecological research station – consisting of a few buildings that perch on the rocky coast of the Anvers Island in the western Antarctic Peninsula, just north of the Antarctic Circle – begins to emerge from a curtain of thick fog. Parts of the island are covered by the gigantic Marr Ice Piedmont glacier, which is about 64 kilometres long and up to 32 kilometres wide, and reaches an elevation of over 2,800 metres.
Palmer has been operated by the United States as a research base since 1967. Twenty years ago, it became part of the Long-Term Ecological Research (LTER) Network, set up by the US National Science Foundation to research the effects of environmental changes. Most of the 26 LTER stations are located in and around the United States, with Palmer the only one studying marine ecosystems in polar regions.

In peak seasons during the southern hemisphere’s spring and summer, Palmer can host 46 scientists and supporting staff. A few times a week, researchers document environmental details from atmosphere and ocean properties to populations of the marine ecosystem – mostly within a three-mile radius. To expand the research area, annual research cruises sail 900 kilometres along the peninsula and take measurements at over 100 fixed locations.
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