These local favorites offer an escape from the conference hubbub.
Anna Kushnir
Amrheins: experience a bit of “Southie” life
Amrheins has been a South Boston institution for the past century, drawing in the after-work crowd and neighborhood regulars with good food and a friendly atmosphere. Amrheins may not be the best place for intimate conversation, as the noise level can get high, but the deep leather booths in the large dining room are a perfect spot for drinks and a relaxed meal.
The shrimp appetizer features large shrimp sautéed with garlic, tomatoes, and olives, and served with toasted bread to mop up the garlic-infused oil. One of the specials is a pepper-crusted halibut steak, which is nicely browned, and the pepper provides a subtle bite. But the accompanying rice is more butter than carbohydrate.
Indulge yourself with the monstrous (and delicious) strawberry shortcake at Amrheins.
The strawberry shortcake appears capable of feeding a group of five, but once you’ve tasted it you won’t want to share. Generous scoops of strawberry ice cream sit atop a modestly sweet biscuit smothered in strawberries. With such a long history in Southie, Amrheins is showing no signs of slowing down.
80 W. Broadway
Boston MA 02127
(617) 268-6189
Appetizers: $6-$8
Entrees: $14-$19
Desserts: $6-$8
Les Zygomates: a taste of Paris in the heart of Boston
Les Zygomates channels the spirit of a Parisian bistro and wine bar, with red leather banquettes lining the walls and an extensive wine list. Many wines are available by the glass or in smaller “taste” portions for easy experimentation.
The food is not solely French, but is firmly rooted in French traditions. Wonderfully tender duck breast is doused in a robust red wine sauce, served with thin shreds of cabbage and a rich potato gratin. Braised beef cheeks are enveloped in a thick sauce and melt in the mouth. They are served with buttery polenta and crisp Brussels sprouts. The sauce saturates the polenta, which is a perfect combination of grainy and creamy.
The sticky toffee pudding at Les Zygomates is a sweet finish to a Parisian evening.
Those with room for dessert beware: the sticky toffee pudding tastes more like spicy gingerbread but is well complemented by thick caramel drizzled over the plate. Once thoroughly satiated, step over to the lounge section, which features daily live jazz beginning at 8 p.m.
129 South St.
Boston MA 02111
(617) 542-5108
Appetizers: $8-$13
Entrees: $18-$29
Desserts: $8
Umbria: a steakhouse with an Italian twist
With its dim lighting, exposed brick walls, and stacks of wine bottles that reach up to the ceiling, Umbria is not your typical steakhouse. While both the room and the food are unmistakably masculine, unlike other steakhouses, Umbria boasts the thoughtful touches of an Italian chef. Pastas are made onsite, lending a fresh and artisanal quality to the pasta dishes, and game meats, such as venison and boar, feature prominently on the menu.
The roasted rack of boar is caramelized and perfectly juicy. Alongside it is a side dish of cauliflower and vanilla panna cotta, a combination of two strikingly different flavors that is surprisingly creamy and harmonious. Wide, slippery ribbons of chestnut pasta are topped with mushrooms and a whole roasted quail. The tiny bird is tender and mild in flavor, with a salty and crispy skin. Not to worry—steakhouse staples such as a rib-eye and porterhouse are also on the menu.
295 Franklin St.
Boston MA 02110
(617) 338-1000
Appetizers: $9-$18
Pastas: $20-$28
Entrees: $24-$59
Potbellies Kitchen: small in size, big in flavor
Small is the theme at the recently opened Potbellies Kitchen. The family-owned restaurant has five tables and four seats at the bar, a list of six wines, and prices that are refreshingly low. The same minimalist approach is applied to the food: it is simple, prepared with care and respect for the ingredients, and without suffocating sauces or heavy-handed mixes of spices.
The Caesar salad is a stellar start. Crisp romaine lettuce is coated with a creamy, potent, garlicky dressing and topped with Parmesan flakes and large, salty croutons.
Baked scrod with roasted ratatouille and Parmesan wafers exemplify simplicity and freshness at Potbellies Kitchen.
The scrod is a hefty piece of moist and flaky fish, lightly dusted with breadcrumbs and baked. Like all the entrees, the scrod is served with your choice of two sides, such as potato salad, macaroni salad, and red coleslaw. They are tossed in thin, vinegar-tinged dressings that allow the taste of the components to take center stage. Potbellies Kitchen may be small, but the flavors are anything but.
87 A St.
Boston MA 02127
(617) 269-2233
Appetizers: $4-$9
Entrees: $8-$16